In a region where prestige often comes with a high price tag, Domaine Charles Audoin delivers something rare: top-tier Burgundy that still flies under the radar. It is located in the village of Marsannay, which was only given AOC classification in 1987 - and this was due, in a large part, to the winemaking talent of Charles Audoin himself. Today, his son Cyril, a fifth-generation winemaker, is rewriting the Burgundy script - one critically acclaimed bottle at a time.
Domaine Charles Audoin is authentic, and still to this day, steadily rising presence in Burgundy. Cyril creates a curated range of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Aligoté wine, sourced from some of Burgundy’s finest vineyards, such as Clos du Roy, Les Longeroies, and Champ Salomon.
Setting the Scene: Marsannay
Despite being considered as the “golden gate” to Burgundy’s Côte de Nuits, Marsannay was long seen as a lesser appellation. There is evidence of winemaking in Marsannay dating back to the 7th century, yet it didn’t receive AOC classification until 1987. Winemakers like Sylvain Pataille, Denis Mortet, and Charles Audoin changed the face of the Côte de Nuits’ northernmost appellation, shifting from selling grapes to négociants to gaining complete ownership of their wines.
Marsannay is unique among Burgundy’s village-level appellations, as it’s permitted to produce all three types of Burgundian wine: white, red, and most vitally, rosé. In terms of terroir, Marsannay is very diverse – its vineyards range from about 250 to 400 metres above sea level, on slopes ranging from eastern to southern. The soils are mostly composed of fossil-rich limestone, with pockets of clay and silt.
In the context of Burgundy, Marsannay offers some fantastic value for money, and an authentic artisanal style that still feels close to the roots of these small, grape-growing communities. Compared to its immediate neighbours, like Gevrey-Chambertin where Domaine Charles Audoin also operates, and the rest of the Côte de Nuit, Marsannay wines are a steal and just as highly regarded among critics.
A Family Legacy: The Story of Domaine Charles Audoin
Domaine Charles Audoin was founded in 1972 by Charles Audoin and his wife Marie-Françoise Audoin, who was also an oenologist. Charles, however, already represented the fourth generation of winemakers in the Audoin family – his ancestors mostly sold their wine to négociants, and Charles was the first to put the family name on the bottle. The winery itself is located in the commune of Marsannay-la-Côte, on the outskirts of Dijon. Charles and Marie-Françoise began with 3 hectares, mostly planted with Gamay and Aligoté, but the winery has steadily grown to encompass 14 hectares.
Charles and Marie-Françoise’s son Cyril joined the winery in 2000, and today, he is the owner and operator. He has vines planted in all three of Marsannay’s villages: Chenôve, Couchey, and Marsannay itself. The winery has transitioned over the years to Burgundy’s favourite grapes of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but it still keeps a small amount of Aligoté in its range. Cyril has put an emphasis on sustainability, low-intervention methods, and vineyard health in recent years, continuing the domaine’s outstanding legacy. The winery has been certified organic since 2018. Cyril’s wines are among the best-regarded in Marsannay and its environs, and strike a wonderful balance between approachability and collectibility, which we will explore more in the following section.
The Audoin Audition: Wines to Try
Cyril Audoin says that there was a never-ending debate between him and his father around what their best parcel was, and it fell between Les Favières and Champ Salomon. Champ Salomon was planted in 1945 by Cyril’s grandfather, and as it holds a place in the Audoin family’s hearts, that is the plot that we are looking at first.
The Au Champ Salomon Rouge is an unfiltered, 100% Pinot Noir wine, lying on the richer side of the Burgundy spectrum.
Notes of ripe fruit appear on the front palate, with undertones of garrigue, spice, and sunbaked earth. It is a well-structured red wine, with plenty of potential for ageing (you can keep it in the cellar for up to 10 years). As (arguably) Charles Audoin’s finest red, this is a great wine for collectors and entry-level explorers alike.
In addition to Pinot Noir, Champ Salomon produces a Chardonnay that is very rich.
It is a medium-bodied white, with flashing notes of citrus and stone fruit, and rounder undertones of tropical fruit, vanilla, and pastries. It can be enjoyed in its youth or after 5 to 6 years of ageing. Subtle wet rock minerality appears on the finish, from the strong limestone presence in the soil. This is a trip straight to the upper echelon of Burgundy Chardonnay, and at a reasonable price point too. Through Champ Salomon, you can get a great sense of the Audoin family’s heritage, and why they are so well-regarded in the region.
Our next recommendation from Charles Audoin is the single-vineyard Pinot Noir Les Longeroies.
Les Longeroies sits just across the border from the commune of Marsannay, and is mostly composed of well-drained clayish soils, with some limestone, which is particularly agreeable with Pinot Noir and creates a well-rounded red wine. Raspberry, cherry, and redcurrant dominate the palate at first, with undercurrents of smoke, garrigue, and dried herbs. It can be cellared for 10 years or more, and is usually counted among Marsannay’s best red wines.
Rosé is an important part of Marsannay’s history, and is part of the reason why it was overlooked so long as an appellation, with rosé being seen as “less serious” than red or white wine. Now, despite being permitted to brew it in the AOC, fewer and fewer Marsannay producers are making rosé, due to the fact that it’s harder to sell it at Burgundy price points, when locations like Provence are on the rise.
As the only Burgundy appellation with permission to make rosé, we would be remiss not to mention Charles Audoin’s stunning rosé, made from 100% Pinot Noir.
It’s packed with fresh and vibrant fruits, with crisp notes of raspberry and citrus. The finish is long, with strong mineral notes. Marsannay rosé may be becoming a rarer breed, but luckily for us Domaine Charles Audoin perseveres, paying homage to the region’s unique history.
In the interest of also paying homage to his family’s history, and the surrounding vineyards, Cyril Audoin also creates a Vieilles Vignes Aligoté.
For a taste of the winery’s legacy at an entry-level price, it’s hard to beat this bottle. It is harvested from 90-year-old vines, originally planted by Cyril’s grandfather. Aligoté offers something a little different from Chardonnay, with crisp notes of green apple, lemon zest, and acacia flowers intertwining on the palate. Cyril ferments the wine in neutral oak barrels, allowing the character of the old vines to come through.
In the region of Burgundy, excellence usually comes at a cost – but not at Domaine Charles Audoin. With passion, precision, and critical acclaim to match, this Marsannay institution proves that the future of fine wine is not just in the grand cru hills, but in the hands of producers who care more about their craft, and the tradition of the region, than the spotlight. Charles Audoin sets the benchmark for the future Marsannay, while remaining a perennial favourite. It’s a great winery to get ahead of the curve and explore this wonderful appellation – before the secret gets out.
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