Altitude is a desirable trait in a vineyard and as far as high-altitude viticulture is concerned, very few wineries can hold a flame to the iconic wines of El Enemigo. Altitude is one of those things you hear a lot about when you start exploring the world of wine in any depth, with the cool air and direct sunlight up there helping to preserve a grape’s most vital characteristics.
El Enemigo is a relatively young winery, founded in 2009. From its inception to the current day, it has been one of Argentina’s most experimental and most talked-about wine producers. El Enemigo wines are innovative, affordable, and critically acclaimed; they are an exclamation to the world, stating that excellent, terroir-driven wine does not always need to be expensive and stuffy.
Its founders are Alejandro Vigil – an esteemed winemaker and soil and irrigation expert; and Adrianna Catena – a historian, lecturer, and winemaker, as well as being the youngest daughter of Argentina’s oldest wine family. They form a close-knit team at El Enemigo, with their perfectly overlapping fields of expertise forgoing the need for any official titles or roles.
In this article, we explore each aspect that has made El Enemigo such a force on the world wine market. Read on to discover the history, the extreme terroir, and most importantly, the wines that make El Enemigo a must-visit and must-taste winery for any wine enjoyer.
The History of El Enemigo Winery
Let us return to 2009. As the story goes, Alejandro Vigil and Adrianna Catena came up with the idea for the winery during a walk back from the Argentinian Embassy in London, where Alejandro had collected his most recent winemaking award. We can only imagine what the duo talked about, but somewhere along the way they invented the name “El Enemigo”. Meaning “The Enemy”, the winery’s name refers to the enemy within, and the idea of confronting one’s own fears and insecurities. It also recalls the idea of “getting out of your own way” – this is the perfect metaphor for the wines of El Enemigo, where the terroir is allowed to shine with minimal human intervention during winemaking.
With Adrianna bearing the heritage of the famous Catena Zapata wine family, the people behind Bodega Catena Zapata, El Enemigo may have always been poised for greatness. The Catena family name has been intertwined with Argentinian winemaking (which we explored in another article) for over a century. The Catena family is still regarded as the savior of Malbec in Argentina and as a major force behind the global recognition of Argentine wine. Adrianna's father, Nicolás Catena Zapata, was among the pioneers in planting French varietals in South America. Her elder sister, Dr. Laura Catena, is equally distinguished, having earned numerous accolades, including the “Woman of the Year” award from Drinks Business.
The true potential of Vigil and Catena became evident with the release of their first vintage. Formerly the head winemaker at Bodega Catena Zapata, Vigil, along with Catena, has since expanded the winery to include an estate restaurant, which can be visited in the city of Maipú. They employ various innovative winemaking techniques, including eye-catching giant concrete eggs and ancient Alsatian barrels. Their wines have received high acclaim from critics, with scores of 99 and 100 awarded by James Suckling and Robert Parker for their Gran Enemigo Chacayes and Gualtallary wines, respectively. Remarkably, it feels like Alejandro and Adrianna are just beginning their journey.
Head in the Clouds: El Enemigo’s Impressive Terroir
Adrianna and Alejandro were brought together by a love for cool-climate Cabernet Franc, and their home country offered the perfect terroir to make some. The El Enemigo winery itself is located in the foothills of the Andes mountain range, in Argentina’s winemaking homeland of Mendoza.
Part of El Enemigo’s appeal is this extreme terroir. The winery’s vineyards are located at around 1,470 meters (4,800 feet) above sea level. For comparison, Burgundy's vineyards, Europe’s renowned cool climate region, reach only up to 400 meters. Even the highest vineyard in Europe, Visperterminen in Switzerland, is at an altitude of 1,150 meters.
These high-altitude Andean locations allow for slow ripening, with remarkable day/night temperature swings adding complexity and striking acidity to the grapes. The soils at this height are also rocky and calcareous – the vines have to dig deep for sustenance, adding even more character and minerality to the resulting wine.
What is so Special about El Enemigo’s Production?
In addition to the extreme Andean climate, El Enemigo employs some innovative tactics in the vineyards and the cellar. Of course, Alejandro and Adrianna grow the Argentinian red wine staple, Malbec, but they also utilize French varietals that are far less common in South America, namely Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc. Even under the great shadow of the Catena family heritage, El Enemigo finds a way to break new ground.
One distinctive feature of El Enemigo is its use of native yeasts. While many New World wineries opt for cultivated yeasts to emulate the consistency of Old World wines, El Enemigo’s winemakers allow the grapes to ferment spontaneously. This approach highlights the unique character of Argentina and its flora, allowing the natural qualities of the grapes and terroir to come through.
In the winery, Adrianna’s deep historical knowledge truly shines. Along with their modern concrete eggs, which ensure smooth malolactic fermentation, those at El Enemigo use the traditional Mendoza material of Alsatian oak. Their barrels have been imported, re-toasted, and reassembled, in a tribute to the practices of the original Mendoza winemakers, who used Alsatian oak over 100 years ago. This is particularly beneficial for Adrianna and Alejandro’s favourite grape, Cabernet Franc, which enjoys a gentle oaking process, enhancing its subtly spicy character.
Signature Wines
El Enemigo’s most famous line of wines is Gran Enemigo. Although you can find Gran Enemigos sourced from different terroirs, they are always reminiscent of the most iconic Bordeaux wines, made in the style of the grand chateaus that line the Gironde River.
These are the flagship wines that best encapsulate what El Enemigo is all about: a mix of French varietals, grown in the extreme terroirs of Argentina. However, there are some more affordable options that should also pique your interest. These are our top recommendations from El Enemigo, to get a sense of what the winery is all about.
This red wine has earned critical acclaim, including a perfect score of 100 points from the esteemed wine critic Robert Parker. It is a blend dominated by Cabernet Franc, with smaller amounts of Malbec. This is perhaps El Enemigo’s greatest red, packed with complex dark fruit flavours, hints of earthy spice, and a distinct mineral character from the poor, calcareous soil of Gualtallary, a sub-region located in Mendoza’s Uco Valley.
This Chardonnay is also sourced from the Gualtallary region of Argentina, where the cool Andean nights and the harsh sun impart a striking acidity. Thanks to Alejandro Vigil’s interest in French winemaking, this Chardonnay is also infused with some Jura-style, Vin Jaune flair. It was aged under flor, a method which involves a thin layer of yeast forming on the surface of the fermenting wine. This often grants an interesting, sour, tangy quality to the wine. In the case of El Enemigo’s Chardonnay, this translates to enjoyably bitter almond notes, alongside green apple and tropical fruit flavours. An intriguing must-taste for Chardonnay lovers.
This blend is another example of El Enemigo’s Bordeaux-style creations. Featuring Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, it is not tied to a single vineyard. The wine is made from premium grapes sourced from Gualtallary and Tupungato, regions nestled in the Andean foothills. It undergoes fermentation in century-old Alsatian oak barrels before being released. The result is a wine celebrated for its complex flavors, including blackberry, plum, sweet spice, and subtle hints of tobacco and leather.
With ratings of 97 and 98 from Tim Atkin and Descorchados respectively, this wine is a brilliant, ever changing expression of the El Cepillo vineyard’s character. In Alejandro’s own words, the wines from El Cepillo vary a lot from year to year due to the vines' roots growing deeper into the ancient rocky soils. It shows intense minerals, with dancing flavours of red and black fruit. Vibrant acidity and firm tannins hint towards its excellent ageing potential.
Sourced from almost 1500 meters above sea level, this Malbec is celebrated for its intensity and complexity. It is the perfect option for an Argentinian Malbec tasting night, where the distinct, vibrantly acidic character of El Enemigo . You can discover flavours of ripe blackberries, plums, and a touch of spice, with a well-balanced acidity and smooth, velvety tannins.
High-altitude Cabernet Franc is the essence of El Enemigo, and this bottle is an excellent introduction to the winery. The grapes come from Gualtallary and are aged for 16 months in Alsatian oak barrels. The palate reveals a blend of dark fruits, sweet spice, and smooth tannins, along with numerous intricate flavors that defy simple description.
Visiting the El Enemigo Winery at Maipú
Given Alejandro and Adrianna’s deep connection to the land, enjoying their wine at the winery itself enhances the experience significantly. The winery is located in Maipú, Mendoza, with stunning views of the snowcapped Andes. If you are planning a trip to South America or are already there, we recommend you visit El Enemigo. You can look forward to an excellent restaurant on the premises, vineyard tours, and wine tastings.
Whether you know a lot about wine or a little, a trip to El Enemigo is a unique Argentinian wine experience. It is undoubtedly one of the best wineries in South America. Each bottle of El Enemigo wine is truly a love letter to the land and region, and this remarkable winery is a leader of innovation in the wine industry as a whole.
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